Adjika

Ingredients

• 5¼ ozHot red chili peppersKeep seeds for more heat, otherwise remove; wear gloves
• 15 clovesgarlicpeeled
• 1⅛ lbRed bell pepperseeded, white ribs removed
• 2¼ lbtomatoesmeaty and ripe, usually peeled
• 1⅓ ozsaltcoarse salt; acts as preservative, add gradually to taste
• 1 ozsugarbalances the acidity of the tomatoes
• 2 tbspvinegarapple, wine or table vinegar; for longer shelf life
• 3⅓ tbspvegetable oilsunflower oil; also as a thin layer over the paste in the jar
• 2 tspCorianderseeds crushed or ground, sometimes briefly dry-toasted
• 2 tspblue fenugreek
• 2 tbspkhmeli suneliGeorgian spice blend
• 1 ozcilantroleaves only, stems can taste bitter
• ⅔ ozbasilfresh or dried
• ½ ozparsleyfresh or dried
• ⅔ ozdill (optional)
• 7 ozonionsoftened in oil, not browned (optional)
• 1 tspground marigold (optional)
• black pepperground, to taste (optional)
• chili flakesto taste for extra heat (optional)

Method

1. Prep the vegetables and chiliesWash the vegetables and herbs and pat them thoroughly dry, and peel the garlic. Halve the bell peppers and chilies and cut out the stem ends and the white ribs — keep the seeds if you want real heat, otherwise take them out too. Wear gloves when you handle the chilies.
2. Optionally dry the peppersIf you'd like a more concentrated paste, let the chilies and bell peppers wilt in an airy spot for 2–3 days first, or dry them in the oven at 60–160 °F for 2–3 hours.
3. Skin the tomatoesPour boiling water over the tomatoes, shock them in cold water, slip off the skins and cut out the stem ends.
4. Toast and grind the spicesIf you like, toast the coriander seeds briefly together with the blue fenugreek until fragrant, then crush them in a mortar or have them ready ground.
5. Grind everything to a pastePut the chilies, garlic, bell peppers and tomatoes through a meat grinder, or blitz them in a blender or food processor to an even mixture that still has a bit of texture. Work in the cilantro, the basil (purple, if you can get it), the parsley and, if using, the dill at the very end.
6. Cook down the cooked versionFor the cooked version, bring the mixture to a boil and let it reduce uncovered over low heat, stirring now and then, until it is thick and glossy — anywhere from 5 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on how thick you want it. Add the salt, sugar, vinegar, coriander, blue fenugreek, khmeli suneli, vegetable oil and, if you like, ground marigold, black pepper and chili flakes towards the end, then taste and adjust.
7. Season and rest the raw versionFor the raw version, simply stir in salt, sugar, vinegar, coriander, blue fenugreek, khmeli suneli and vegetable oil, plus ground marigold, black pepper and chili flakes if you like. Pour off or drain away the excess juice, then let the paste sit for anywhere between 15 minutes and 48 hours before it goes into jars — this is its resting time.
8. Fill and seal the jarsWash and sterilise the jars and lids, fill in the paste without trapping air bubbles, cover with a thin layer of vegetable oil if you like, and seal. Jars filled while hot should also be turned upside down, covered with a cloth and left to cool.
9. Store and let it mellowStore the adjika somewhere cool and dark, or in the fridge. Give the cooked version a few hours to a day of rest in the fridge before serving, and the flavour will be deeper and the texture better; the raw version already had its rest before it went into the jars.

Tips and variations

Adjika thrives on variation. The raw version skips cooking altogether and relies on salt and spices alone to preserve it, so keep it cool. The cooked version simmers uncovered for anywhere from 5 minutes to 1.5 hours. If you want it uncompromisingly hot, a pure chili-garlic paste leaves out the tomatoes and bell peppers entirely. Tomato paste can stand in for the fresh tomatoes. You can also make the whole batch without vinegar. For something milder, soak the chilies in warm water for 4 hours before grinding, changing the water every hour. Onions softened in oil beforehand, without browning, go through the grinder with the vegetables and cook along with the paste. Parsley root takes the place of the fresh herbs in another version. And remember: the more salt, the longer the paste keeps. Serve it in little bowls alongside grilled meat, fish or vegetables — in summer it simply belongs next to shashlik from the fire.