Mtsvadi

Ingredients

• 2½ lblambboneless, trimmed of membranes and sinew, cut into pieces of about 4–5 cm
• 5onionsliced and kneaded by hand for the marinade, or small and peeled threaded between the meat
• 1pomegranateseeds for serving, juice optionally for the marinade
• saltfor seasoning the meat
• black pepperground
• fresh herbse.g. cilantro, parsley, mint; for serving
• ½ cupvegetable oilfor the marinade and for brushing shortly before done (optional)
• 2 tbsppaprikafor the marinade (optional)
• 2 tbspChilifor the marinade and for sprinkling shortly before done (optional)
• 1red onionin rings, marinated in wine vinegar for about 10 minutes, for serving (optional)

Method

1. Trim and cut the lambTrim the lamb of any membranes and sinew, then cut it into pieces of about 4–5 cm.
2. Knead the onionsSlice the onions, put them in a large bowl and knead them firmly with your hands until they release plenty of juice.
3. Mix the marinadeAdd the lamb to the onions and season with salt and black pepper. Then work in either the juice from some of the pomegranate seeds (keep the rest for serving), or vegetable oil with paprika and ground chili, and mix everything together thoroughly.
4. Marinate overnightCover the bowl and let the meat marinate somewhere cool for at least 5–8 hours, or better still overnight. Give it a stir a few times along the way so every piece stays coated in the onion juice.
5. Get the embers readyLet your wood or charcoal burn down for about 30 minutes, until you're left with white embers and no flames; fruit tree wood works well, and grapevine wood is ideal. Spread the embers out evenly. If you like, use this time to soak the red onion rings in wine vinegar for about 10 minutes.
6. Thread the skewersStrip the onion pieces off the meat and set them aside. The marinade onions don't go on the grill, but hang on to them if you'd like to cook them into kharcho later (see the tips). Thread the lamb tightly onto the skewers, with the smaller pieces at the ends, and press everything firmly together with your hand.
7. Grill over the embersLay the skewers over the hot embers, turn them for the first time after 1 minute, then keep turning them about every 2 minutes for a total of 10–15 minutes. If the embers flare up, douse them with water or wine from a bottle with holes punched in the cap. If you're making the spicy version, brush the meat with oil shortly before it's done and sprinkle it with ground chili once more.
8. Check and serveCut into a piece to check that the meat is cooked through. Serve right away with fresh herbs such as cilantro, parsley and mint, the pomegranate seeds and the pickled red onion rings (if using).

Tips and variations

Beef (rib eye or rump) or leg of pork work well instead of lamb. For the purist version, skip the marinade altogether: just salt the meat and thread it onto the skewers, alternating with small peeled onions. Grilled eggplants make a great side, slit open and stuffed with pepper, salt, sheep's tail fat and herbs, along with sauces like tkemali, garlic water or pomegranate sauce. And if a skewer is left over at the campfire, cook the meat and the marinade onions down with rice, tomatoes and garlic into kharcho. A glass of dry red wine rounds off the evening.