Katmis Mtsvadi

Ingredients

• 2¼ lbBoneless chicken thighstrimmed of cartilage and excess fat, cut into bite-sized pieces
• 5¼ ozGreen tkemali plum saucebase of the marinade, also served alongside
• 2 tspgarlicdried and ground, for the marinade
• ⅓ ozsaltcoarse salt or herb salt
• 1 tspblack peppercoarsely ground
• 1 tspPaprikafor colour and flavour in the marinade
• 2Onionthinly sliced into half-moons, for the marinade and as a side
• ½ cuppomegranate juiceacidic addition to the marinade or for the onion garnish (optional)
• Pomegranate seedsscattered over before serving
• 1 bunchCoriandertorn, for serving
• 1 bunchparsleytorn, for serving
• 2 tbspVegetable oilfor the marinade and for brushing on the grill
• 2lavashto line the platter and to slide the meat off the skewers
• ½ cupmatsonialternative marinade base for tender poultry (optional)
• ⅓ ozSvan saltspiced salt for the marinade (optional)

Method

1. Trim the chicken thighs of cartilage, any leftover skin and excess fat, then cut them into even, bite-sized pieces.
2. Stir the tkemali together with the salt, ground dried garlic, black pepper, paprika and vegetable oil into a smooth marinade.
3. Slice the onions into thin half-moons and knead them firmly with your hands until they release their juice, then mix them into the marinade.
4. Turn the chicken pieces in the marinade until every piece is coated all over, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, ideally overnight.
5. Let the charcoal burn down in the grill until you have grey, flameless embers — vine wood and fruit wood count as the most traditional fuel.
6. Thread the meat onto metal skewers or lay it on the grate, brushing off any clinging pieces of onion first so they don't burn.
7. Grill the skewers over the embers, turning every 2 to 4 minutes, until the pieces are browned all over and cooked through; brush with a little oil as they go.
8. Let the meat rest briefly under a cover, slide it off the skewers with lavash and arrange it with the marinated onion rings, pomegranate seeds, cilantro and parsley. Serve tkemali and lavash alongside.

Tips and variations

Instead of tkemali, the marinade can be built on pomegranate juice with onion, ground dried garlic, paprika and sumac, on matsoni with soy sauce and Svan salt, or on sour cream with pickled tomatoes, paprika and dry ajika — with the last one, brush the skewers with ajika again at the end. If you're short on time, marinate in onions with white wine and crushed bay and give the meat just 30 to 40 minutes; pork neck or shoulder in 4 to 5 cm cubes works as well as poultry. Without a grill, cook the skewers in a cast-iron pan preheated in the oven. For the side, let red onions sit briefly in wine vinegar or pomegranate juice and serve everything on lavash — ajika goes well with it.