Lamb Tolma

Ingredients

• 1⅛ lbground lambfor the filling, mixed mince also possible
• 24Grape leavesbrined or fresh, soaked or blanched and rinsed beforehand
• 1onionfinely chopped or grated, for the filling
• 4 clovesgarlicfinely chopped, for filling and sauce
• 1 cupmatsoniGeorgian yogurt, or thick yogurt; for the sauce
• 1¾ ozcilantrochopped, for filling and sauce
• Corianderdried, for the filling
• 1 pinchChilior ground red pepper, for the filling
• saltto taste
• black pepperground
• 2⅛ cupswaterfor simmering, just enough to cover the rolls; or chicken stock
• 1 ozdillchopped, for filling and sauce (optional)
• ⅓ ozmintchopped, for the filling (optional)
• 1 bunchparsleychopped, for the filling (optional)
• 2¾ ozriceparboiled for 6 minutes, for the filling (optional)
• utskho suneli (blue fenugreek)for the filling (optional)

Method

1. Prepare the grape leavesGet the grape leaves ready: pour boiling water over fresh leaves, or soak brined ones and rinse them well, then drain thoroughly.
2. Make the matsoni sauceFor the sauce, stir the matsoni (or thick yogurt) together with some of the chopped garlic and some of the cilantro, plus a little dill if you like, and let it sit in the fridge while you carry on.
3. Parboil the riceIf you want rice in the filling, parboil it for about 6 minutes, then drain it and let it cool a little.
4. Mix the lamb fillingPut the ground lamb in a bowl with the finely chopped or grated onion, the rest of the garlic, the remaining cilantro and, if using, the dill, mint and parsley. Season with ground coriander, chili flakes, salt, black pepper and a little utskho suneli if you have it, add the rice, and knead everything together firmly until the mixture holds.
5. Fill and roll the leavesLay a grape leaf rough side up, place a small spoonful of filling near the stem end, fold in the sides and roll the leaf up into a snug little parcel. Repeat with the rest of the leaves.
6. Pack the rolls in the potPack the rolls seam side down, close together, in a pot. Pour in just enough water or chicken stock to cover them, then set an upside-down plate on top so they stay closed.
7. Simmer the tolma gentlyBring everything to a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 30 to 90 minutes, until the leaves are tender and the filling is cooked through.
8. Serve hot with the sauceLift the tolma out of the pot while hot and serve with the cold matsoni sauce.

Tips and variations

Instead of simmering, you can wrap the rolls in lamb caul fat as well and cook them on the grill, which gives them a lovely charred flavor. A great alternative to the matsoni sauce is one made from grilled eggplant, tomatoes and chilies, blended with matsoni and cilantro. Feel free to play with the herbs, too: basil or thyme work instead of parsley, and you can be more generous with the dill and mint. My serving tip: make the sauce properly cold and put out plenty of it, so everyone can dunk their hot rolls.