Georgia
Zarmatsuli Khachapuri
The lazy khachapuri: a loose cheese batter fried golden in the pan
35 min·4 servings
Adyghe cheese
A fresh, unripened cheese from the North Caucasus, set from cow's milk with sour whey: white, mild, lightly salty and firm enough to slice without melting.
Adyghe cheese comes from the Republic of Adygea in the North Caucasus and is made from heated cow's milk curdled with sour whey; the curds are drained in baskets and the cheese is not aged. It is white, moist and dense yet slightly crumbly, with a mild milky flavour and a faint sour, salty note. What matters in cooking is that it does not melt when heated but holds its shape, so it can be pan-fried, used in dough fillings or simmered in cubes in sauces. It is sold in Russian and Eastern European grocery shops, occasionally at well-stocked cheese counters, or by refrigerated mail order.
Substitute:
Paneer is the closest match, as it is likewise acid-set and does not melt; it is a little firmer and unsalted, so season to taste. Halloumi also holds its shape when fried but is noticeably saltier and squeakier, which makes the dish more assertive.
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